On the 17th - The Irishman's idea of Atlas (1911)

Here's another charming cover from Puck Magazine, dated March 15th, 1911. By 1911 the magazine had toned down its anti-Irishness a tad, so that this illustration, although critical of an aspect of the Irish psyche, doesn't quite plumb the depths of racism that the magazine once had. It's also notable that they felt the need to mark the occasion at all considering the magazine's provenance as a German-American publication. This Irish Atlas holds a globe in one hand, with a badly realised but obviously much enlarged Ireland on it, and, never too far from the stereotypes of yore, a cudgel in his other hand. Happy St. Patrick's Day everyone.

Ballymena (1858)

 

This is an article from the Irish Miscellany out of Boston, the same publication that talked about the charms of  Finglas. Again no author for the piece is listed. 

The subject of the above illustration, is a flourishing market town, situated in the centre of the county of Antrim. Within the last ten years it has been rapidly progressing in size and respectability. At present it contains about one thousand houses, with between four thousand and five thousand inhabitants. There are in Ballymena two Presbyterian houses of worship, one meeting house in connection with the Seceders, a Roman Catholic chapel, an Episcopal church and a Methodist chapel. There are two academies and a free school for the children of the town and neighborhood, whose circumstances prevent their attendance on the schools. The country around Ballymena presents a very beautiful appearance, being well cultivated, and much ornamented by planting in various directions. A little hill, standing to the westward of the town, commands towards the south, a pleasant view of a rich and cultivated valley, as well planted and as amply ornamented with houses, orchards and hedgerows, as any vale in England. The cottages and farm houses present that appearance of neatness and comfort which distinguishes the province of Ulster from many other parts of Ireland; the squalid misery, and extreme wretchedness apparent elsewhere, and so irksome to the feelings of every benevolent mind, not being apparent here.

The peasantry are rather well informed, and have in general that idea of independence which gives to the lower orders of this portion of the country such a decided advantage over those of the other districts of Ireland. They are, however, very superstitious, and attached to many old customs and pastimes. A short distance from the town is a rath or mound of earth, connected with another mound, in the form of an ampitheatre. It is fifty feet high, and being planted with trees, forms a very pretty object, and it is very well worthy of the inspection of the curious. About seven miles irom Ballymena, and in the background of our illustration, is the celebrated hill, Sleive Mish, where St. Patrick is said to have tended the swine of Milco.

Rather more than two miles from Ballymena, on the Ahogill road, in the handsome village of Gracehill, a Moravian settlement, which consists of about forty houses and four hundred inhabitants, and forms three sides of a quadrangle—in front of which is a very beautiful hedge-rowed pleasure-ground. Midway to this place is Galgorme cattle, at present the property of Lord Mountcashel, and partially fitted up and inhabited by one of the agents to the estate. There is a legend here relative to a former proprietor, who is Said to have sold himself to the devil for a certain remuneration in gold. The box which contained the treasure being still to be seen in one of the rooms of the castle.

This settlement was commenced about seventy-five years since, on a townland containing about two hundred and twenty acres, taken from Lord O'Neill, the entire of which is in a high state of cultivation, numbers of comfortable cottages, and thriving gardens, surrounded with luxuriant hedges, appearing in every direction. Midway from Ballymena to Ballymoney, somewhat to the left, are seen the Craigs rocks, or Fort of Craigs, which form a square of nine thousand feet in area, with a very deep trench, close to which are three pillars erect and tapering, supposed to have been placed there in honour of some valiant chieftain slain in battle; and but a short distance from them, in the hollow of a high and craggy ridge, there is a cromlech, or druidical altar—a slab of black heavy stone, one foot in thickness, ten feet long, and eight broad, originally placed upon five supporters. Beneath this is a chamber which communicates with two others, about seven feet square, and arched over—the whole standing within a circle of hundred and thirty-five feet in circumference, the ground underneath having formerly been hollowed into a kind of cavern.

A writer in Mason's Statistical Survey, speaking of this place, observes—that it must have been the theatre of great events in former times; that it possesses more remains of antiquity than he has any where seen in the same space of ground. The place where the altar is erected is lonely and awful—it induces thought, and brings back the memory to former days, over which the mind broods with pleasure. Here Fingal and his clans of Mourne and Boiskene may have displayed their valor—Torgis and his Scandinavians committed their ravages—Sourleboy ( i. e. Yellow Charley) and his Scotch played off their stratagems— or De Courcey and his English showed forth their heroism. All are now gone; a total change of laws, manners, religion, and war, has taken place and a rational religion and mild government have blessed us with peace and knowledge.

The First Irish Conscript (1914)

I found this gem while looking through Trinity's DRIS. It depicts in comic tone what would be needed for the British government to implement conscription in Ireland.  Although this card purportedly dates from 1914, it makes sense to me that it was probably produced later on in the war when conscription became a big issue.

At the outbreak of the conflict the various political factions in Ireland lined up for and against joining the fight. Irish Parliamentary Party leader, John Redmond, who a couple of years earlier had organised a group of Volunteers, supported it, as did Irish unionists such as Edward Carson and his Ulster Volunteer Force. Many Irishmen of different political hue and of every religious background volunteered to fight. 10,000s of them never came home again. The 36th (Ulster) Division alone, lost over 5,500 dead, injured and missing, in only two days during the Battle Of The Somme.

However, a growing element of nationalists in Ireland were against the whole enterprise and preferred to plan military action that would liberate Ireland than fight to liberate Belgium as was the main draw for many Irish Catholics. The split in Irish nationalism at the time was beautifully and poignantly captured by Co. Tyrone poet and singer, Felix Kearney. In his Eamon Roe, an elderly man recalls a fallen friend from his youth who chose a different path:

1914 and the German threat and England went to war, 

"we can't leave Belgium to their fate!" the cry went far and near,

I joined the British Army then but Eamon wouldn't go,

"there's cleaner work for Irishmen at home" said Eamon Roe.

Although serving in one of the various arms of the British military was a career option (and remains so to this day) for many young Irish people, there exists an extensive body of folk songs sung in Ireland that look on signing up and serving in a negative or humorous light. Arthur McBride, Mrs. McGrath, and Ewan MacColl's British Army are among the better ones but there are a host of others.

The Irish In America: Long Journey Home (1998)

Here's a documentary series I've been meaning to track down for years. Directed by Thomas Lennon it includes musical contributions from the likes of The Chieftains, Elvis Costello, and Sinead O'Connor. I've enjoyed the soundtrack but I've never actually managed to see the documentaries before. Thanks to the wonders of youtube here it is in its entirety. Having not watched it yet I can't say it's definitely worth a watch but I'll update this post when I get a chance to give it a look. It comes in four parts.

Part 1: The Great Hunger (88 mins)

Part 2: All Across America (117 mins)

Part 3: Up From City Streets (88 mins)

Part 4: Success (60 mins)

Irish Lighthouses (pre-World War I)

Here is a selection of old photos of Irish lighthouses, as far as I have been able to ascertain they all date from 1914 or before. This is by no means a comprehensive pictorial list of the lighthouses that dot our shores but gives a decent representative sample I hope. This map shows all the aids to navigation around our shores. None of Ireland's many lighthouses have lighthouse keepers anymore but it's possible to visit and tour a lot of them. So have at it Daoine na hEireann. 

 

This is the very photogenic Baily Lighthouse in Howth which dates from 1814. It was the last permanently manned lighthouse in Ireland, only becoming automated in 1997.

 Blackhead Lighthouse overlooking Whitehead, Co. Antrim dates from 1902.

 Kilcredaun Head Lighthouse, Co. Clare first shone in 1824. Unfortunately it shines no more.

The Fastnet Rock, 4 miles (or 6.5km) south of Cape Clear Island, Co Cork is home to Fastnet Lighthouse, the highest lighthouse in Ireland. The lighthouse came into service in 1904, replacing an inferior one originially constructed in the 1850s. Fastnet is sometimes referred to as Ireland's teardrop because for many a shipbound emigrant in the 19th and early 20th centuries it was the last piece of Ireland they saw.

Mine Head Lighthouse, Co. Waterford was built in the 1850s.

Inishtrahull Lighthouse on Inishtrahull Island, Co. Donegal dates from 1813 is Ireland's northernmost lighthouse. The cow and man also pictured are likely long dead.

The distinctive Hook Head Lighthouse, Co. Wexford is the oldest lighthouse in Ireland. A beacon of some sort has existed on this spot since the 5th century AD. Some part of the current lighthouse dates back to the Normans in the 12th century. My mother also did a splendid painting of this lighthouse a number of years ago.

This is Ballinacourty Lighthouse near Dungarvan, Co. Waterford. It was constructed in 1858 to help guide ships into Dungarvan Bay. 

Loop Head Lighthouse is situated in Co. Clare. The current lighthouse dates from 1854 but there was a lighthouse structure at the same spot since at least the 17th Century.

And this final lighthouse is on Tory Island, Co. Donegal. It and Inishtrahull lighthouse guard the northwest coast from wayward ships.

Old Dublin Photographs (1946)

O'Connell Street, Dublin, 1946. Note the intact Nelson's Pillar. Local historian and collector, Ken Finlay, has pointed out to me that this image illustrates the impact that wartime rationing, in this case of petrol, had on Ireland. The array of bicycles pictured reflects the reliance people had on them when they could no longer source petrol for private vehicles and indeed public transport. While this photo was taken post-war, rationing in Ireland did not end until 1951. This page has more information on rationing and includes examples of ration coupons.

 Grafton Street, Dublin, 1946. Pedestrianisation was still a few decades in the future.

 Grafton Street, Dublin, 1946.

 Lower Pembroke Street, Dublin, 1946.

O'Connell Street, Dublin, 1946.

 O'Connell Street, Dublin, 1946. Young fellow advertising a precursor to KFC. In the background you can see the distinctive building with an arch that houses McDonald's these days.

I'm not too sure where this is. It feels like it might be either Westmoreland Street or Dawson Street but those are just guesses. If anybody knows please comment. Edited to add: @noflashingneon on the auld twitter has identified it as Westland Row, beneath the Railway Bridge.

Dublin Castle (1581)

Here's a depiction of Dublin Castle from 1581, perhaps the oldest extant image of the building. It shows Sir Henry Sidney's army going forth to wreck havoc on all and sundry. It is contained amongst other detailed engravings in The Image Of Ireland, With A Discoverie of Woodkarne by John Derricke. This book depicts Sidney's adventures in Ireland as Queen Elizabeth I's Lord Deputy. You can access the book here. Perhaps the detail of most note in the image is the heads on spikes along the battlements at the top.

Postcards (1900-1970)

 This is the Mall, in Waterford City, circa 1900.

 This rather nondescript postcard of The Diamond in Donegal Town dates from the 1960s.

 Dublin's Fair City circa 1970.

 Skibereen, Co. Cork, circa 1960s.

St. Patrick's Street in Cork City, circa late 1800s.

William Street in Galway City, circa 1930s/40s.

 Patrick Street, Kilkenny City, circa 1900.

A history tour of Swords (1921)

These passages were published as part of the wonderful The neighbourhood of Dublin: its topography, antiquities and historical associations by Weston St. John Joyce originally published in 1912 but this updated edition was published in 1921. You can download the whole book in .pdf here, beware though it's a big file. The book describes many areas of Dublin at the time and their histories. I've no doubt I'll dip into it again for posts. The reason I picked the Swords section is because it's my hometown and current place of residence and I have some nice roughly contemporary photos of the town to complement Joyce's written passages

Passing through Drumcondra, Santry, and Cloghran, we enter the ancient town of Swords, consisting of a long, wide street, situated on the great northern road, at a distance of eight miles from the metropolis. It derives its name from the Celtic word, sord, meaning pure, originally applied to St. Columbkille's well, which from time immerorial has been one of the principal sources of water supply in the town. This well is on the by-road to the left as we enter the village, but is now concealed from view, a pump having been erected over it during the past few years to preserve it from contamination.

One of the most notable events in the history of Swords is the funeral of King Brian Boru and his son Morrough, after the Battle of Clontarf, when the bodies of these warriors were conveyed in solemn procession from Dublin, and deposited for the night in the ancient monastery here, on the way to their final destination in Armagh.

According to the ancient records, Swords was burnt by the Danes in 1012, 1016, 1130, 1138, 1150, and 1166AD; and in 1185 it was taken and sacked by O'Melaghlin, King Of Meath. It must, consequently, have been a much more lively place of residence in those days than at the present time.

In 1578 a Royal mandate was issued for the better establishment of the Corporation of Swords, and for the purpose of determining the limits of its franchises and liberties. Commissioners were thereupon appointed to fix the boundaries, two miles on every side from the town.

At the commencement of the Insurrection of 1641, the Irish army assembled at Swords, and refusing to disperse in obedience to a warrant of the Lords Justices, Sir Charles Coote, with a considerable force, was sent out from Dublin to attack them. He found the entrance to the town on the Dublin side strongly barricaded, but succeeded in driving the insurgents from their positions after a sharp engagement with loss on both sides.

In 1788 Richard Talbot, of Malahide, obtained an Act of Parliament authorising him to construct a canal from Malahide to the Broadmeadow Water through Swords for the conveyance of goods, in consequence of the prohibitive charges for carriage by land, but the project was abandoned owing to the death of its originator.

Swords was constituted a borough by James I, returning two members to the Irish House of Commons, and was one of the few free boroughs in Ireland (ie, not private property), the franchise having been vested in what were called, in the slang of the period, "Potwallopers", meaning Protestants who had been resident for a continuous period of six months. The last two members were Francis Synge and Colonel Marcus Beresford.

The most conspicuous objects in the town are the round tower, 75 feet high, which is the only surviving portion of the original monastic establishment, and the mediaeval church tower, 68 feet high, belong to a structure which was erected not later than the 14th century. The round tower is surmounted by a cross, placed there about 100 years ago. The adjoining modern church was built in the early part of the last century out of the remains of the ancient one, an illustration of which latter appears in Grose's Antiquities.

And the northern end of the street stands the ancient episcopal palace or castle, designed as a defence against the Danes or other marauders, and sufficiently extensive to shelter the whole population of the town and their chattles within the circuit of its formidable walls. Admission to these ruins can be obtained on application at the adjoining house. The visitor is still shown the Constable's residence, the soldier's quarters,
and the Warder's walk, as also "St. Columbkille's Chapel," to the right of the entrance gate, with several watch towers one of which looking north, is in excellent preservation. A full description of the this in Alan's Liber Niger, and according to the inquisition recorded therein, it would appear that the place was in a ruinous condition so early as 1326.

A short distance north of the castle is an elevation known as Spital Hill, where, as the name indicates, there stood in ancient times a hospital, probably for lepers- an institution to be found in every town of importance during the period when that terrible scourge was prevalent in the country. In this connection, it should be mentioned that St. Finian, the Abbot of Swords, who was appointed by St. Columbkille in the 6th century, was himself a sufferer from this disease and is, in fact, usually referred to as "St. Finian the Leper." The ecclesiastical establishment here was founded about 550AD by St. Columbkille, who soon afterwards retired in exile to Iona, off the west coast of Scotland.

A mile and a quarter to the north-west of Swords are the ruins of Glasmore Abbey, an ancient ecclesiastical establishment which was destroyed in the 7th century by the Danes who murdered the entire community. Adjoining the ruins is St. Cronan's Well, named after the saint who fell in the massacre.

Leaving Swords by the main road, we presently cross the Broadmeadow Water, from the bridge over which is obtained a view along the estuary of that river towards Malahide. The road now passes through a dense wood- very dark in the night time- and we ascent the height beyond Turvey bridge, to the north may be seen Baldongan castle and the low hills of Naul and Garristown, while to the south are the dim forms of the Dublin mountains in the blue profile. We next pass the road to Skerries branching off to the right, and continuing along the main road, in about a quarter of a mile we reach Corduff Bridge, where we turn to the left along the road to Ballyboghil, meeting in about a mile and a half, a grass-grown lane on the left, leading up to the site of Grace Dieu, the once-famed convent of the Canonesses of St. Augustine.

Mary Magdalene's Asylum (early 1900s and Streetview)

 

I was doing my usual browsing through old photographs online when I found this one that caught my eye. It's of Saint Mary Magdalen's Asylum sometime in the early 1900s. This was situated on Brookvale Road in Donnybrook in Dublin and as far as I can ascertain operated into the 1990s as a Magadalene Laundry. It's estimated that between 10,000 and 30,000 women were incarcerated in these institutions for "crimes" such as prostitution, having children out of wedlock, being intellectually disabled, or having been a victim of abuse. Only in the past week has an official apology been made by the Taoiseach, Enda Kenny, on behalf of the state, to survivors of these vile institutions. Thankfully the laundries no longer operate due to changing societal mores and economics. Frances Finnegan, an academic whose Do Penance or Perish: Magdalen Asylums in Ireland remains the most extensive study yet done on the laundries has said that "Possibly the advent of the washing machine has been as instrumental in closing these laundries as have changing attitudes." Below is the same location on Google's Streetview in recent years.